The guys we fought.

Conclusion: The Russians Are Back

The most interesting thing in Afghanistan was I myself. That is, the most interesting thing to me. Tastes differ; most likely, to you it will be you. It is interesting to observe how you change.

Contagious sobriety is the main factor in Afghanistan that changes you. One would expect to see misery here — and it does exist to some extent, generated more by general poverty than war. Bitterness is another expected feeling — and it is definitely there, but not in the cynical forms we are accustomed to. Sobriety is the thing. You walk through a completely destroyed area of a city — and do not see expected misery or cynicism around — and you sober up, a question clearly forms in your head, “Why did we do all this, for what?” It does rescale your values.

“The Russians Are Back” — vandals in Zarnegar Hotel, Kabul

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